Kojic - The Science - Brighten and Glow

Do you know there is an alpha hydroxy acid derived from mushrooms that has amazing brightening properties ? ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

Kojic acid has the ability to lighten skin by inhibiting the melanin-synthesizing enzyme tyrosinase. It’s also a potent anti-oxidant with amazing anti-bacterial abilities.

A powerful ingredient that provides an anti-aging effect. You probably already use some form of acid in your skincare routine such as glycolic or salicylic acid, but there is another acid that deserves a mention in the skincare arena.

If your goal is a brighter glowing skin, or a more even complexion Kojic a great option. Kojic Acid, a naturally-derived ingredient which comes from mushrooms, is excellent at fading hyper-pigmentation and discoloration, also known as dark or sun spots. Kojic also helps to treat scars.

Naturally produced by a fungi this acid is a by product of the fermentation of rice wine or yeast fermentation.

A quick look at the science. Kojic acid works as a lightening agent because of its affect on the melanin production. An amino acid called tyrosine is needed to support the production of melanin. Kojic acid reduces or prevents the production of tyrosine.

Melanin is a naturally occurring pigment in the body that gives eyes, hair and skin their colour.

Kojic Acid is obtained from for example, Shiitake Mushroom. Shiitake mushrooms are an abundant source of Kojic Acid, they produce an antioxidant that eradicates free radicals when it attaches to your skin cells, helping to brighten skin , treat pigmentation and treat melasma ( a skin condition characterized by brown or blue-gray patches or freckle-like spots. It's often called the " pregnancy mask .") Melasma occurs because of overproduction of the cells that make the color of your skin.

It also decreases the appearance of scarring. Its anti fungal and helps prevent and treat fungal infections such as athlete's foot and yeast infections.

Shiitake Mushrooms look like this.

We mention Shiitake Mushrooms because they are readily available but there are many other mushroom varieties that are equally and sometimes even more valuable. Both Shiitake and Reishi mushrooms are the best for skincare use while Snow Mushrooms are the best for hydrating. Healthy skin needs to glow and hydrate and kojic acid will decrease wrinkles and hydrate the skin. Mushrooms contain amino acids, minerals, vitamin protein and lipids.

Kojic will help prevent UV and environmental damage when applied to the skin. Use this in serums, creams, lotions, and even soaps along with Vitamin E and Glycerine.

Besides lightening and benefits for treating discolorations like ageing and dark spots, it can also be used on freckles and melanoma (Skin cancer) Acne also responds well to Kojic acid treatment. Used as an effective topical preparation in a balm for eczema or rosacera because both of these problems have a high inflammation component that responds very well to Kojic Acid.

Reishi Mushrooms

Reishi mushrooms are deeply hydrating and brimming with benefits. They can reduce skin redness and fend off fine lines and wrinkles. Ideal for dry rough cracked skin and the Kojic Acid helps lock in the moisture.

Chaga Mushrooms

Russian for Mushroom, these mushrooms are also called the "mushroom of immortality". The Chaga mushroom is a fungus that grows on Birch Trees in very cold areas like Russia, and Canada.

These have amazing anti cancer and super antioxidant properties. These are often used in powder form as a tea but can also be used topically in creams and lotions, serums and washes. These are non steroidal and promote collagen , rejuvenates skin cells and skin flexibility. An excellent skin brightening agent.

Snow Mushrooms

Super Hydrating - Tremella Fuciformis - the Snow Mushroom is approximately 5 - 7 cms. It is thin, ruffled, gelatinous and translucent. This mushroom holds 1000 times its weight in water and like hyaluronic acid is a wonderful plumping agent. It attracts water to the skin. This has been used for centuries in Asian skin care and medicine as it has wonderful healing and anti aging properties. It brightens the skin, and is a super moisturiser.

The Safety of Kojic Acid.

You might well be familiar with using Glycolic and Lactic Acid in your skin care formulations as a means of brightening and providing more even complexions.

Kojic Acid is a skin brightening superstar. It is ideal for plant based beauty formulations and brightening skincare. It is natural and mild but patch test and stay out of the sun after use as it can be UV sensitive.

The “Acid” connotation, might be concerning, but a lot of studies have shown that Kojic Acid is safe to use on the hands and face, and in fact all over the skin. Do not use too much or it can become an irritant.

When making a product use this ingredient in a concentration of 1 to 4 % of any formulation. 1-2% is strongly recommended. Many skincare products contain Kojic Acid alongside other brightening ingredients and exfoliants.

Magic Mushrooms are definitely taking on a whole new meaning. The healing properties of mushrooms are super hot. Mushroom have been used in ancient medicine for centuries for anti inflammatory and anti oxidant purposes. In a quest for even radiant skin you need to try Kojic acid in your formulations and skin care regimes. It is well worth a try as it has so many positive benefits and a really fantastic natural alternative for not only skin ailment treatments but for regular anti aging skin care.

Make your own Shiitake Mushroom Powder.

Set your oven to the lowest temperature possible. If it doesn’t go lower than 60°C, then you will need to keep the door slightly ajar during the drying process. Do not overheat or it will kill the healing properties of the mushrooms.
Thinly slice all your mushrooms, roughly 8mm thick. Spread them out on wax paper in an oven tray. Put them in the oven and check them frequently, turning them over every hour. After about 4 hours they should be dry. They should be brittle and snap. If still flexibility leave them and return to the oven for a little longer.
Once dry, allow them to cool, then blitz into a powder using a spice grinder or food processor. Store in an airtight jar in a cool dark place for up to a month.

Add the powder to your soaps.    Only use a little at a time.
When adding into your serums, lotions or creams you need to prepare a liquid infusion in advance. infuse the powder 1 tsp in a little spraying alcohol 100 mls. Leave it there for 2 weeks and let is soak. Turn the jar you are soaking the powder in often. Strain. Now stand in hot water for 12 hours. A crock pot works well but otherwise do this during the day and just keep changing the hot water.    Strain and store the liquid in the refrigerator.   Use within 2 weeks.
Rather make smaller quantities often than trying to make big batches as it will not last.

Remember the powder can also be used for tea, smoothies and even baking.   Please do your own research if you are planning to use mushrooms internally.

I hope that you have great results using these ideas in your formulations and soap products.
Make a wonderful healing anti inflammatory soap for anyone suffering from eczema. It is not a miracle over night cure so persevere with the use to get desired results.

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